Bar El Arriate, Jerez de la Frontera, Spain: ¡Ole con ole!

19 Feb

Two of the four women sit by the ornately barred corner window, fags in fingers dangling outside. They take deep drags every so often and blow the smoke through the bars. That counts as not smoking in Jerez de la Frontera. I don’t give a shit because I stumbled on good live flamenco at Bar Ariate, one of my happy places in Jerez. The place I saw Angel Muñoz’s three-year-old daughter dance on the table, where I shared muchos vinos tintos with Australian flamencas and often ended the night after Sala Compañia.

An abuela and young girl (I discover later she’s the singer’s daughter) sit on stools at the end of their table. Everyone cackles and shares phone screens during a break in the program. I assume they’re family of singer Rosario Heredia and/or guitarist Jesus de los Rios who are just winding up their first set with a swinging tangos.

I’m pretty chuffed. Since arriving by train from Madrid midday I’ve settled into Palacio Torneria, collected my festival pack and extra show tickets, stocked the fridge and rented a daily practice studio. The latter was tortuous as usual since Señor Jose Luis Canco writes everything by hand in duplicate, dia por dia. Still he has a fetching smile for a septugenarian. I even had time for a siesta and located a restaurant for a group dinner later this week. My Aussie flatmate Suzanne just arrived so all is well with the world and the first glass of chilled fino is slipping down nicely. 

In the second set Rosario sings Bulerias de Jerez and two people jump up for an impromptu solo dance. The first a wild haired, jeans clad woman busts out her moves, hmmm not bad…. then for the next letre a young Downs Syndrome teenage who nails her bulerias remates and brings down the house. ¡Por Dios!

Opening show is Eva Yerbabuena so we have a wonderful 8th Festival de Jerez ahead! 

¡Salud! Thanks for joining me. I’ll post again mid-week.

This is how they welcome guests in Jerez, fino sherry in the fridge.     


2 Responses to “Bar El Arriate, Jerez de la Frontera, Spain: ¡Ole con ole!”

  1. February 20, 2016 at 12:12 pm #

    hello Sharon,

    welcome to Andalusia. hope to take in some of the Jerez fest sunday night, perhaps we will run into each other. i´m the limping guy with the hi’tech cane!

    cheers, =ig (eye gee)

    • Sharon Tickle February 20, 2016 at 9:52 pm #

      Ha ha, will look out for you, but you know I saw a guy in el Ariate tonight who walked in assisted by cane and then sang and danced bulerias. It was miraculous, the power of flamenco! Be sure to say g’day if u see me.

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