Dancing the blues away at Festival De Jerez 2024

I began the 2024 Jerez festival fortnight in a state of mild melancholy. I didn’t have to look too far to figure out why. Two years ago to the day Putin unleashed the dogs of war on Ukraine. My beautiful flamenco friend in Kyiv, Olena, is still being bombed. And Netanyahu continues to prosecute his scorched earth strategy in Gaza. The weight of these horrors can’t just be shaken off. Added to that over the past twelve months the bells have tolled for three people who took their flamenco gifts with them. Sixty-three-year old Miguel Pérez, the guitarist who played at Manuel Betanzos’ studio every time I was there and supported countless emerging and established dancers and singers died suddenly of a heart attack late January. I remember swapping my three-month-old bicycle for ten of his CDs rather than sell it back to the bike store. Another Seville flamenco guitarist I admired in class and in tablao, Dani Velez, also died suddenly last year of carbon monoxide poisoning at home. And lastly, a dancer I didn’t have personal experience of, but knew as an integral member of the Estévez/Paños Company, Rosana Romera, aged 46, died unexpectedly too in January.  

Miguel Pérez 2011

The blues lingered, but by focussing on the healing possibilities of music and dance I worked through the sadness. Friends, sunshine and fino helped too.😁

Tarantos in Bodega González Byass with Andrés Peña provided the perfect catharsis. Every single time I stood silently to listen to José Carlos García Pozo play his elegant falsetta at the beginning of the dance, tears ran down my face. Andrés gifted us nine minutes of beautiful Tarantos-tangos choreography, but even more importantly, he gave us insight into how to structure the piece and identify the breaks. 

 

Andrés has been teaching via zoom with Flamenco en Red since the pandemic lockdown and continues to transmit his special brand of bulerias de Jerez all around the world. For the second year at the festival he organised a ‘convivencía’ lunch with music and dance at a Jerez tabanco for students to meet for real and dance to live cante and guitar. There must have been 60 people or so present and those who wanted to had their couple of minutes in the spotlight.

Luckily for us Ryo Kobayashi was launching his new album and invited Andrés to dance to the singing of the incredible Jesús Méndez in the Peña Flamenca de Bulerias. What a night, packed to the rafters!

Andrés Peña

 

Singer Luis Vargas ‘El Mono’ and guitarist Jose Carlos García Pozo with maestro Andrés Peña

My second week class choice had to be Manuel Betanzos with his Fandango-Bulerias por Soleá with Manuel Soto singing and Javier Ibañez on guitar. Observing how Manuel worked with the musicians to weave a Soleá verse into a Fandango then segue into a Buleria por Solea segment was fascinating. A real bonus was being able to take a private group lesson with Manuel Soto to learn the song with Javier supporting. Many thanks to Tania Goh for organising this rare opportunity! Stuart was listening in the bar outside and said we “sounded great”, high praise indeed!

Cante class!

 

The only negative aspect of classes was being located in Antonio El Pipa’s Danzaluzia studio for the second week. It’s dirty, rundown, and poorly lit. In three places the super hard wood flooring is giving way. After pointing out one especially dangerous area to the Festival staffer she got a piece of white paper and taped it over the offending spot so it could be avoided. Several of us have given feedback to the festival administration. I hope it’s rectified in future, especially for the teachers’ well-being, as they can spend five or seven hours in the studio per day for seven days straight.

 

Me 68 and Manuel Betanzos 54 years old – flamenco keeps you young!
Manuel Soto, Manuel Betanzos and Javier Ibañez

We have an exceptionally strong Aussie posse here, especially from Adelaide, and dear Francesca arrived for the second week. Plenty of opinions and personal experiences to listen to as we dissected, over drinks, the Festival and off festival performances.

Las flamencas locas!

Unfortunately every single dancer who was here for the fortnight succumbed to one illness or another, there are lots of cold viruses floating around, so I was literally the last woman standing at one point. Then Stuart arrived from Malaga with a raging chest cold! So far so good….

One of many rowdy meals
We squeezed in peñas between festival and off-festival shows.

 

Stuart made it to two shows.

The new Festival director chose, with one notable exception, who shall remain nameless, an excellent and varied line up of artists. I found it impossible this year to pick a favourite. It would be like choosing your favourite child so I won’t. In no particular order, of the twelve Villamarta shows, the ones I adored and would pay to see again in a heart beat were: Fuensanta La Moneta’s ‘Vinculos’, Patricia Guerrero and Alfonso Losa’s ‘Alter Ego’, David Coria and Company’s ‘Los Bailes Robados’, Estévez/Paños y Compañia’s “Confluence” and Compañia Mercedes Ruiz’ “Romanceros”. Mercedes was partnered by the captivating, clever José Maldonado. Together they created magic and his solos were memorable. Seventy-year-old Manuela Carrasco’s farewell Villamarta performance was hugely emotional for everyone present and her supporting artists were outstanding, but it is time for Manuela to bow out….

 

Fuensanta La Moneta
David Coria and Company
Mercedez Ruiz and Company
Estévez/Paños y Compañia

Other festival artists I especially enjoyed were the dancers, David Romero and Francisco Hidalgo.

David Romero
Francisco Hidalgo

We are now on our way to the Dolomites to see if there is any snow left!

 Our flight to Madrid was loaded with amigas flamencas. Hasta la proxima guapas!

Seville: La Bienal, Elcano and Operation Unicorn

Three major events happened on the same day last week, Thursday September 8. Eerily they occurred at almost the same hour.

In order of significance to me they were: the official opening of the monthlong La Bienal XXII;

The commemoration of the completion of the first circumnavigation of the world 500 years ago by Spanish Captain-Navigator Juan Sebastián Elcano; and

The death of HRH Queen Elizabeth II unexpectedly at Balmoral Castle.

The first two occurred in Seville and I was excited to be a part of them.

The third produced wall to wall coverage on Spanish telly and newspapers that continued throughout the weekend. British tourists were crying into their cerveza. Even now news and current affairs programs here can’t get enough of the Royals, especially with the controversy of the ‘Two Kings’ going to the funeral.

If you missed it, trophy hunter and philanderer King Juan Carlos of Spain abdicated in 2014 in favour of his son (and third child), the current King Felipe. Juan Carlos swiftly moved to the UAE, but since then has been pursued over alleged corruption up until very recently. Juan Carlos has accepted the invitation so watch out for further developments since British courts ruled this year that he is not immune from prosecution by a former lover who has filed a law suit alleging harassment.

But enough of all that. Australia has a referendum scheduled for 2024 on the question of whether to retain a British monarch as our head of state. I think you can guess which way I will be voting.

Flags out in Triana for a local church festival
Puente Triana (Isabel II)

Flamenco trumps all else so I’ll begin with that.

I gave myself an easy first week – just an hour of class with Manuel Betanzos at his academy in Triana. The term started with only six students. We had to move from the air conditioned main studio to the small ‘Manolo Marin’ studio on the street side to make way for David Pérez’ bulerias class. Imagine that!

View from my spot by the open window – we have had several 36 degree celsius days
And we get a lot of people stopping to look in, some of then fag in hand.

Manuel chose the palo Garrotín, an elegant, playful style with folkloric roots. It also comes with a hat as prop. Apart from bata de cola (the long-tailed skirt) I steer clear of flamenco props. Controlling my body, getting the soniquete right, and not grimacing are enough of a challenge.

On day one I brought my white sun hat to use. A hat’s a hat right? Wrong. Manuel politely instructed me to go shopping. I returned next day with a seven euro red tourist sombrero. It’s perfect except for one thing. The thing Donald Trump and I have in common. Small hands. When I try to hold it by its stiff crown my hands nearly go into spasm. One time it flew off and ricocheted off the wall onto the floor.

Mi sombrero and shoes drying out….

Manuel exhorts us to treat the sombrero as a beloved treasure and to never hold it by the side, always the front and/or back. I handle it as tenderly as a newborn.

It’s day seven today and I’m getting the hang of it. I may have found my groove.

It seems Manuel is economising on supporting musicians as we only have a guitarist twice a week and Manuel is singing accompaniment. Badly. He is a sublime dancer but not a singer.

This week Manuel’s invited artists for afternoon classes are two great artists, Manuel Liñan and Marco Flores. The studio is crammed with flamenco teachers and aspiring performers from all over the world hoovering up choreography.

Manuel allowed me to observe the master classes – I sat through three hours of four different palos. Both Mañuel and Marco are unfailingly polite, 100 per cent focussed and frequently funny teachers. Marco especially has a relaxed, calm style even when executing ridiculously difficult steps.

He was very touched when Manola Marin himself, the Triana living legend, now in his 80s, stopped in to watch Marco teach.

I’ve kept my routine simple (and doable) by adding a morning technique class with David Pérez. Remember I haven’t been in class since Jerez….My hips hurt like hell from the exaggerated style the garrotín demands but it’s nothing a couple of days rest won’t mend. I walk everywhere. One day I clocked more than 30,000 steps and it was the weekend.

After my final Garrotín class with Manuel.
Classmates, Manuel and guitarist Dani Vélez.
Al Arte Flamenco by Puente Triana – I wonder whose rear end they modelled her on?
La Giralda – Cathedral of Seville
La Giralda and town centre from Triana
Maria Luisa Park’s Plaza de España – much of it was taped off for an event.

As luck would have it David performed at Casa de la Memoria last night. He gives 110 per cent. His turns are so inventive – like skater spins but on a wooden floor. I was front row centre and oddly the only person in the audience wearing a mask. This has been the case at almost all the shows. I’ve concluded that the pandemic in Europe is over by popular opinion despite what the WHO says.

This 2021 sculpture in Magellan Park pays tribute to the health workers and emergency services staff who made such huge personal sacrifices during the early stage of the pandemic.
David Pérez dancing with Irene Rueda por fin de fiesta, the only time cameras are allowed during the hour-long show.
Guitarist Tino and cantaor Sebastián Cruz

The Italian flamencas are here for the bienal too. My friends Vanessa and Francesca have made evenings hugely enjoyable. Francesca and I coordinated most of our shows last week, but unfortunately high school term starts this week. She has returned to Pesaro to school teenagers in Italian literature.

Final night’s tapas and drink with Francesca at Bar Las Teresas.

This week it’s the Aussie flamencos, Sebastián, Roshanne and David!

Gelati in Alameda.

The flamenco Bienal got off to a rocky start. Its premier venue, Lope de Vega Theatre, was axed two days before the first scheduled performance by singer David Lagos. The reason given was ‘technical problems’ but anyone walking by can see that the theatre is in the midst of renovation. The shows were moved to Cartuja Auditorium, an hour’s walk from the centre.

El Teatro Lope De Vega

I learnt from experience and bought all my Bienal tickets well in advance – many shows sold out.

My favourite of the five main stage productions I saw was ‘Antipodas’, the double bill of Chilean dancer Florencia OZ (Zúñiga O’Ryan) and her twin sister musician and singer Isadora O’Ryan. Having followed Florencia’s career since 2011 when I first saw her at T de Triana I became emotional watching how beautifully and creatively she and Isadora performed together. I saw several other people crying as we exited the theatre. Direction was by the amazing David Coria.

Isadora is wearing the long sleeved dress.
With David Coria

And my favourite dancers of the five tablaos I went to (on different bills) were Fuensanta ‘La Moneta’ and Alberto Sellés.

Left to right: Fuensanta ‘La Moneta’, Federivo Nuñez, ‘Tremeno Hijo’, Ivan Carpio and Sebastian Pérez at Casa de la Memoria.
Alberto exiting with ‘La Marquesita’ – singer is Javier Ribero.

And what of the 500 year anniversary of the world changing three-year circumnavigation started by Magellan and completed by Elcano? I’ve never seen so many sailors so far from the sea and so many gongs.

An event was held at the Golden Tower/Torre De Orro
I’m guessing the officer in grey is Portuguese. Well, Magellan did get part way round before being murdered.

King Felipe waved off an armada of tall ships and a naval vessel from Sanlucar de Barameda where Elcano and his nineteen crew (seventeen Europeans and two men press ganged from Maluku – then called the Moluccas or Spice Islands) first made landfall on Spanish soil on September 6, 1522. The convoy tied up at the Muelle de las Delicious two days later in the same spot the original Spanish fleet of five ships left from.

I bought tickets for Francesca and me to attend a celebratory cocktail party on board a replica 17th century Spanish Galeón at the docks. The ship was rigged and fitted out just as she would have been when they were the armed cargo carriers of Europe. And moored right behind her was the official replica of Elcano’s three-masted carrack (nao in Spanish and Portuguese), the ‘Victoria’.

The ships moored at Muelle de las Delicias.
Nao Victoria replica.

I imagined the ship limping into dock, manned by her ragged, sick and emaciated sailors. Shipworm had eaten so much of the hull they were in danger of capsizing because they couldn’t bail the seawater out fast enough.

It appears that one of the reasons Elcano succeeded was his practice of putting major courses of action he proposed to a vote by all the crew. I like the cut of his jib.

A second, less authentic ‘Nao Victoria’ docked closer to Triana Bridge

At the party we sampled three unique cocktails signifying three important stops on the circumnavigation and using many of the flavours of those locales. Delicious!

Cocktail anyone?

One toast was for La Bienal, one for Elcano and his crew and one for the longest serving British monarch.

I’m leaving Seville tomorrow to meet Stuart in Venice en route to Cortina. He’s been motorcycling in Italy with Alastair and has promised an instalment on how to stay alive on two wheels.

Hasta luego!

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Plague Journey Part Eleven: Festival de Jerez XXVI and Andalusia

We undertook this trip knowing our common enemy was covid and took steps to mitigate that ongoing risk. To date omicron has hit Tristan, Jenny and Ms E in Edinburgh, who are recovering well. Touch wood not us – yet.

What we did not expect was that a single psychopathic, homicidal, fratricidal man would declare war on and invade all of Ukraine and in so doing pit Russia against most of the rest of the world. We are watching in horror at what Putin is inflicting on a peaceful democratic nation of 40 million people.

Added to that monstrosity is news that a wet weather system stuck over South Eastern Queensland and Northern New South Wales (where our home and many family and friends are) is drowning people in their homes and inundating large swathes of city and country. This brings back bad memories of the 2011 and 1974 floods, both events swamped my then homes. We are starting to wonder what else 2022 will be remembered for.

We’re sure Gypsy Hill is okay, but good friends in Byron Bay are going to check on it for us just in case.

We are keeping calm and carrying on with Plan A, but ready to change tack at any time.

Channeling the brilliant, fearless Lola Flores

Our ten days in Jerez de la Frontera for week one of the two-week 26th Festival de Jerez has, unsurprisingly, been the highlight of the journey thus far for me. The Australian lock-in kept me away last year and I vowed I would be back in class and in the flamenco venues this year come hell or high water….

Jerez Cathedral by full moon
View from our apartment

Week one has been ‘Jerez Lite’ since attendance numbers are understandably down, with fewer classes and shows and audience numbers at about 50-60 per cent, apart from the blockbusters in week one of Rocío Molina and Farruquito. 

Stuart is with me. As many of you know, Stuart’s appetite for flamenco is satisfied with one performance a year so he attended one Villamarta Theatre show, Manuela Carpio’s Jerezano extravaganza, and was happy with that. He will reveal his ‘off festival’ adventures below.

My aisle seat (no20) for the week was in Principal row one with no one behind!
El Teatro Villamarta

I registered for Manual Betanzos’ Tangos de Malaga class (nivel basico), which was at capacity. Two hours and twenty intense minutes a day for seven days straight is sufficient. I knew Manuel would deliver an enjoyable learning experience and he did. I got such joy from being in his presence while he developed the piece with his usual wonderful collaborators, Manuel Soto (singer) and Javier Ibañez (guitarist) – see below.

We were fortunate to be in Sala Paul auditorium which was converted to a dance studio. It was a comparatively huge, airy space for 26 dancers and two musicians. The reason we had that venue became clear on day one when a video cameraman set up towards the front of the room. The Festival and Manuel had arranged to post the entirety of the classes online for students all over the world to follow. Oddly they didn’t check that was okay with us.

No matter I reasoned, I am hiding behind a pillar in row three on the far side next to the open door (to lower my possible viral load).

Five minute respite

All went well for the first two days as we worked through the various pieces of the choreography. Day three however Manuel asked me to do the material up to that point solo with the musicians. I baulked and begged to ‘do it another day’ hoping like hell that day would never come. Unfortunately the day came on day six. I could not refuse again and risk my friendship with Manuel. Time to grow some cajones.

By then we had learnt a entrance, escorbilla (crescendoing footwork) with a cierre (closure), a letre (verse of dance with remates), the falseta (lyrical piece to guitar only) and the tangos de malaga upbeat ending. Manuel set up the space as you would for tablao. I was required to begin from a seated position on stage facing the camera and the rest of the class (audience) to do an improvised salida and dance the first letra, finish gracefully and invite a second dancer to continue and retake my seat. Easy peasy right? Well, actually no when the guitarist plays something quite different and the singer does a long vocal warm up…. I crashed and burned.

Manuel explained where I went wrong and I had a do over. This time I listened more attentatively and made it through. That was the longest minute and a half of my life and probably the first and last time I will perform with live accompaniment. All of it, failure and success, were captured and broadcast for the viewing pleasure of who knows who, where?!

Here are some stills I screenshot from the time limited video the class was emailed.

The mask hid my terror….
The Debrief

What did I learn? That flamenco performance is truly a non-verbal dialogue between musicians and dancer. Success comes from internalising the rhythm, knowing that piece of music thoroughly, in all its possible permutations, and having an instant vocabulary of dance pataitas and remates (little pieces of choreography) such that you, the dancer, can adapt to change on the run as necessary. It’s not only bulerias that are dynamic. Watching Manuel dance so naturally and vary his choreography depending on what the musicians did was eye-opening.

Four other dancers of all levels, were also asked to solo and they did brilliantly. I cried watching them. Face masks are wonderful for hiding emotions.

Made it!

And so to the shows. I only went to the eight Villamarta shows (and part of a Tabanco Cruz Viejo tablao) as I didn’t want to leave Stu on his own all the time.

Maria Moreno (not THE Maria Moreno) at El Tabanco Cruz Viejo

Rather than critique all of them (some did not rate very highly with me) I will just note that the most satisfying solo show was Maria Moreno’s while the best group show was Manuela Carpio and her big flamenco puro line up which included Pepe Torres, Gema Moneo and Antonio Canales.

Maria Moreno’s curtain call
Manuela Carpio’s curtain call
Manuela Carpio’s Fin de Fiesta

Rocío Molina was crazily brilliant, stratospherically creative and difficult technically, but it was Rocío plus one brilliant young guitarist Yerai Cortés. I appreciate her enormously, but without voice flamenco is an unsatisfying meal for me.

Rocío Molina and Yerai Cortés
And the crowd went wild…

Farruquito’s show was too loud with way too much flute and quite repetitive. Again, Pepe Torres was a highlight, Karime Amaya not so much. Yes, it was a thrill to see father and son dancing – ten-year-old Juan El Moreno nearly upstaged his dad – but Farruquito is becoming more and more like Johnny Depp, worshipped for his aura and complicated history rather than what he actually delivers.

Father and Son Fin de Fiesta

Unsurprisingly Jerez has not come through the pandemic unscathed. The orange trees are already blossoming, scenting the air and the number of storks in the towers of the churches is healthy, but cafes, bars and restaurants have closed or changed. The cafes that have stayed open have expanded into outdoor public spaces, I imagine for reasons of public health. Happily the Villamarta Theatre bar has reopened. It is a more upmarket cocktail and tapas bar whilst the market cafe has become a fancy cocktails and cakes bar. Gallo Azul is still closed and Tabanco El Pasaje has gone posh with laminated menus and a sectioned off paid seating area for the tablao shows. Thankfully they still chalk up the tab on the wooden bench and a glass of fino is 1 euro 20.

Stork sightings
Santiago with more storks
Plaza Plateros

Rather more concerning is what is happening to the cobbled streets of the old town. The council is having the waterpipes replaced. Streets and plazas are being dug up by machines and instead of conserving the cobbles and replacing them they just put down a base of sand and concrete such that beautiful, historic roads are now an ugly patchwork of concrete with a ribbon of stones here and there.

Finally, the most important element of the Jerez experience, as always, is the reunions with friends from all over the world. While many were missing this year it was even sweeter to see those who could make it to share hugs and hear stories of what has been happening in their lives these past two years. Overwhelmingly they have weathered the pandemic with grace and humour, in many cases redesigning and redefining their careers and life goals.

A rare treat to reunite with these two, Sebastian and Andrés
Our final breakfast – with Francesca and Tania

Our dear Italian friend, Francesca, was there for the week too and stayed with us for the first three nights. She’d decided to have a thorough holiday so didn’t sign up for classes. This meant she was free to join Stuart in some tourism.

Happy man 🤣

Stuart’s Adventures:

Nothing entertaining other than my headfirst dive over the handlebars of my rental bike. I failed to notice a step in the middle of a ramp. For a couple of seconds I lay on the dirt wondering why nothing really hurt, then next second a gorgeous looking tanned young lady was at my side pulling the bike off me. Meanwhile her citroen was stationary in the middle of the roundabout with traffic backing up. She was unconvinced I was not significantly injured and it was all I could do to get her to return to her car without transporting me to the hospital.

Other than that I:

Completed my journey minus some skin to a coastal bird sanctuary;

La bellissima Francesca!

Explored by bike the port town of El Puerto de Santa Maria with Francesca and again solo. I am happy to report that not all of southern Spain is splattered with high rise beach apartments;

El Puerto de Santa Maria
El Puerto de Santa Maria restaurant
Wetlands

Bussed it to the coastal sherry town of Sanlucar de Barameda with Francesca for a fantastic fish lunch on the beach;

Sanlucar De Barameda (from whence Columbus set sail)
Pisto con huevo
The most delicious artichokes

Sherry tasted at Osborne Bodega – 5 standard glasses later I needed a rest under a tree to sober up;

Shivered watching Sharon swimming in the Atlantic Ocean;

Ate, drank and walked too much;

Plotted next year’s travel. Top secret, can’t reveal anything yet.

Back to Sharon: We’d made sure to have a free day before we flew on to Venice. No trip to Andalusia is complete without a visit to Cádiz. Carnival was under way, minus the singing groups parading through the streets. A stroll and coffee in Barrio Santa Maria, a swim at La Caleta followed by a beer in the sunshine then lunch at the Parador de Cádiz overlooking the Atlantic were the perfect way to spend the day before returning to Jerez for dinner with dear friends and Farruquito’s show called, you guessed it, “Farruquito”!

Barrio Santa Maria
Extreme social distancing
Stu’s starter
La Caleta dog beach
Everyone should play footy in a tutu

Time has moved on and it is one week since the murderer Putin invaded Ukraine. The death toll is rising as he advances, but the tide is against Russia. No matter how long it takes, the demigogue will not win because he has underestimated us. Paraphrasing an old idiom, and as Rocío demonstrated on stage, we the people, in solidarity with Ukraine, CAN dance and chew gum at the same time.

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Plague Journey Part Ten: Madrid

I have swapped Mairena, population 194 for greater Madrid, population 6.8 million. Thanks to COVID the streets are not swollen with tourists so it’s easier to dodge the dog shit. Fact: there’s an average of 1.31 dogs per Spanish household and they all poop on the footpaths and in the plazas.

Madrid’s holding the line on omicron with an overall vaccination rate of 81.5%, 402 new cases yesterday (down from 1200 the day before) and 16 deaths yesterday. They’ve lost 27,437 citizens since the pandemic began. Women in their 90s have been especially vulnerable. Too many beloved abuelas…

Stuart stayed in Malaga to cycle and get fit for skiing while I prepare my body, especially my feet, for Festival de Jerez and see as many shows as I can, wearing a mask at all times of course Mum.

I confess I haven’t pulled on flamenco shoes for eight months, since Simone Pope stopped zooming her flamenco dance from Brisbane. She was allowed to teach face to face again, however the Queensland-New South Wales border stayed closed for months locking me out. I got lazy and then deconstructed my practice studio as it’s being rented out along with the rest of our property while we are away.

First outing

Enough excuses. I am back at Centro de Arte Flamenco y Danza Española Amor de Dios for daily class with Lola Mayo.Alegrias basico Monday, Wednesday and Friday and Seguiriya-Solea on Tuesdays and Thursday. Lola’s husband, Basilio Garcia, of the whimsical moustache, plays guitar and Pepe ‘El Bocadillo’ sings for the advanced class with his eyes closedwhich is fine by me as it means he can’t see me murdering his seguiriya.

Seguiriyas
View from studio window

Older (66 next month!) and wiser and with my rheumatoid arthritis still under control, an hour a day in shoes plus my own yoga practice and walking is all I need or want right now. That plus ibuprofen thirty minutes before I hit the floor for the first two days.

Amore de Dios above Mercado de Antón Martín
Note the yellow line to direct pedestrian flow

I chose a spacious apartment on Calle Lope de Vega. Félix Lope de Vega y Carpio 1562-1635 was a randy, prolific poet, playwright and novelist whose 16-year-old wife Isabel becomes ‘Belisa’ in his poems and a play, as well as the name of a cocktail bar around the corner from here. I walk to the studio, Atocha train station, Antón Martín market, hammam, and of course all the flamenco venues I want to frequent. I just happen to be in the heart of Barrio de las Letras in the crossant-shaped section of Madrid called Huertas and Santa Ana. Cervantes is buried in my street and his arch rival Lope de Vega’s house museum is in Cervantes street around the corner. Whilst it’s mostly men of letters who are honoured here, I did spot Elena Fortúna’s (Maria de la Encarnación Gertrudis Jacoba Aragoneses y de Urquijo) plaque on Calle Huertas. Though successful with her long-running series of ‘Celia’ books (1929-1987) told through the hopeful eyes of a seven-year-old child, Encarnación’s own family life was tragic.

Calle Lope de Vega – there’s always a pharmacy within 100 metres
Happy coffee four steps from my door

That said, these streets carry so much accumulated grief and loss I have to consciously search for the bright spots. Just walking down Calle Santa Isabel I noticed embedded in the pavement outside number 41 this plaque.

See below

Fermín’s memorial is one of 31 throughout central Madrid, all remembering Madrileños who suffered and died as result of being sent to Nazi concentration camps. Fermín was an aspiring footballer and a ‘fighter for the disadvantaged’, according to El Diario, when he went into exile in France. He was interned in occupied Salzburg and sent to Mauthausen in northern Austria at the age of 23. He was alive when US soldiers liberated the camp of 85,000 people in 1945 but was so sick he later died in hospital. His whereabouts are unknown despite his family searching for his remains up to today. A moment’s silence for Fermín and his family.

Photo credit El Diario

I’m loving spreading out into two bedrooms, lounge and a well equipped kitchen, and best of all a washing machine! My landlords are very solicitous. After a day they asked if I had everything I needed. I said it would be perfect except I don’t have a toaster. Twelve hours later Marcia was at the door with a toaster.

They get very sweaty!

The bed at Las Chimeneas was a standard Spanish matrimonio, made for short, skinny mountain people. Stuart’s feet hung over the end and we woke each other up turning over. Here my bedroom is a quiet cave as I am on the ground floor at the back facing into a glassed private courtyard, perfect for drying clothes. No street noise or rowdy neighbours. Bliss.

My only problem has been the three key system that gets me in and out of this place. I managed okay the first two times,feeling like a skilled safecracker opening the tricky front door and not dropping the keys through the bottomless grill immediately inside, but last night I almost came undone. WhenI got back late (no, not drunk, not even close) I couldn’t for the life of me open the door to the apartment with the other two keys. At the third failed attempt I took a deep breath and tried to figure out what I’d done wrong. Yep, I had been using the wrong key in the wrong lock. They fitted perfectly but didn’t turn so I’d convinced myself something else was the matter.

Impresionante no?

At home we don’t have a house key, our one external door has a combination lock, and in any case we barely need to lock the house, so carrying three unfamiliar keys for a self locking door is stressful to me.

Madrid is familiar after so many visits. I don’t feel the need to go and and see or do anything in particular. Wandering until I find a sunny spot at a cafe I’ll easily while away an hour people watching and reading. My companion author on this trip as been Mary Lee Settle and her ‘Spanish Recognitions: The Road to the Present’ courtesy of a lucky book swap with Anne the night before we left England. 

Mary Lee, an American established writer of fiction and non-fiction, left her third husband at home and drove solo all over Spain in a small rented car at the age of 82 with the vague aim of finding St Theresa, St John of the Cross and Lorca. She zig zags through histories, cultures and provinces trying to understand how modern Spain came to be. Her prose can be stunning and very funny. Here she is on the jewel of Granada, “If you cannot relearn wonder again at the Alhambra, you might as well stay home and die”.

The book was published in 2004. Mary Lee died in 2005, aged 87. She was writing up to the day she popped her clogs.

A top spot in Lavapies
A favourite outside Plaza Mayor
Plaza de Santa Ana

Reading Mary Lee has made me a little braver. Last year I enrolled in six months of intermediate level Spanish through a Brisbane university via zoom and determined to use it at every opportunity. On my first night here I found Taberna La Dolores, the most interesting looking, most vibrant tapas bar on my street, marched in and claimed the last free table. When the waiter asked me accusingly if I was going to eat (sub text,’You’d better order big or give up that table mujer’) I replied in Spanish that I’d have a couple of tapas dishes and a glass of white wine thank you very much hombre. Order received and understood we got along then very well.

Taberna La Dolores
Taberna La Dolores

And today, sitting at a cafe in the sun just outside the entry to Plaza Mayor I conversed pleasantly with the waiter in Spanish. When he’d brought my order he turned to the young man who’d sat down at the next table and asked him in English what he’d like to have. The guy protested that he was Spanish and could very well order in Spanish! Aaah, small victories to be savoured. 

St Valentine’s day came and went. Two sweet encounters: a couple celebrating their love with lunch in the sunshine, one handsome young man gave another handsome young man a single red rose and a kiss. And I walked by a mum holding a huge, shiny red, heart-shaped balloon just out of reach of her delighted toddler who kept jumping up to touch it.

Some notes on the shows I saw, and didn’t see – alas, Casa Patas is closed for the month of February. I hope it reopens as planned in March.

Watching a movie here is a definite for my next visit!

Corral de La Moreria 19:30hrs 13/2/2022 49 euros included one drink: The incomparable Gaditano sensations, Eduardo Guerrero and Maria Moreno dancing, Samara Montañez and Ana Polanco singing and Pino Losada on guitar. All wonderful! I just wish the punters would turn off their mobiles when told.

Corral de la Moreria
Eduardo Guerrero
Maria Moreno

By chance I bumped into Eduardo, whom I have been encountering in class and on stage for the past five years or so, arriving at the venue and wished him luck for his two shows that evening. He was sweet and invited me to meet after the show. My experience has been that getting to know your heroes up close and personal is not always advisable and I’m too old to be a groupie, so I bowed out. How he manages to project such strength, danger and energy within the confines of that 4×6 metre stage is a mystery. His playfulness is infectious. He tried to crack up the singers who teetered on the verge of corpsing. As always his costumes were impeccable, only designer rags for Edu.

Maria is such a joy, especially seeing her up close (my seat was four metres away from the stage). She danced cantiñas in a pale pink silk and tulle bata de cola with an exquisite cream embroidered manton. Duende came out of the blue, as it does, when after completing a section of fast, tricky footwork Maria stopped a moment dead centre front of stage with her skirts bunched up in her arms, cracked a broad smile and giggled. Just for a couple of seconds. Then she launched into the next passage of poised, elegant movement. She truly lights up the room.

Next morning I was in the women’s change room at Amor de Dios, wasting time before my 11am class, when a casually dressed, one might even say scruffy, plain looking woman walked in and plonked her gear on the bench and started whipping off her clothes. I did a double take (rude to stare when she had her boobs out) to confirm it really was her. ‘Are you Maria Moreno?’ I asked timidly. ‘Si!’ She answered with a smile. Golden opportunity to tell her how much I enjoyed her performance the night before and several other times over the years since I first saw her dance with Farruquito and that I was looking forward to seeing her in Jerez (she’ll be onstage in the Villamarta Theatre on 21 February). I asked if she was teaching that day. ‘No, I am rehearsing.’ What I would give to be a fly on the wall of her practice studio……

Cardomomo, 19:30hrs 15/2/2022 49 euros included one drink: Karime Amaya, Nazaret Regis and Pablo Fraile dancing, Antonio de Manuela ‘El Cancun’ and Laura Abadia singing, David Jimenez on guitar and Felipe Maya and Antonio Jimemez on percussion and palmas.

I had high expectations of Karime Amaya and yes, she was good in her Alegrias with super strong footwork and Nazaret Regis also performed an enjoyable Tientos, but it was Pablo Fraile’s Seguiriya that I loved. Andrés Peña will kill me for saying this but Pablo reminded me of a younger Andrés. Very sincere, unfussy, great soniquete and feeling. Oh, and he is gorgeous.

The guitar was lovely, but too loud. ‘El Cancun’ played a supporting role whilst Laura Abadia solo’d her Tangos with great gusto. Photography and video were allowed so you can see for yourself.

Pablo Fraile
Pablo Fraile
Karime Amaya
Karime Amaya
Karime Amaya
Laura Abadia
Nazaret Regis
Laura Abadia
Fin de Fiesta


Finally, another serendipitous encounter. Sunbathing in Plaza de Santa Ana I noticed a poster for flamenco on the wall of Teatro Español. It advertised a free photographic exhibition of 70 works by the Barcelona photographer known as Colita, Isabel Steva. Now 81, Colita has been photographing flamenco for 60 years. Black and white portraits of everyone from Carmen Amaya to Antonio Gades to Miguel Poveda to gypsy children on the street are there to drink in. Nothing is staged, everything is of the moment. How did I not know this incredible woman exists?! The exhibition runs to April 22.

A sneaky peak inside Teatro Español

Calderón Theatre, 20hrs 16/2/2022, ticket price 49 euro for a stall seat nine rows from the stage: “A Chorus Line”, a Spanish language version co-produced and co-directed by Antonio Banderas. The show started its run in Malaga last year in the theatre Banderas founded, with Banderas in the role of the choreographer, Zach. Banderas has since handed his boater on to others. Tonight it was Manuel Bandera (no relation). I hadn’t seen the musical since the Drury Lane, London, production in 1977. It’s hardly aged at all. Most of the choreography holds up, especially when danced by a young black guy, Daniel Délyon (“Richie”) who was the standout dance talent, while the actress who played Puerta Rican ‘Diana’ (Estabalitz Ruiz) has an amazing voice and presence.

The cast I saw

La Carmela Tablao, 21:00hrs (actually started at 21:30hrs), 17/202022, 45 euro including drink. It’s a long thin cellar room with two chairs each side below La Carmela restaurant. The cast was: Lola Mayo (my teacher and the reason for going that night), two male dancers, Pol Vaquero from Cordoba and Juan Andrés Maya from Granada, guitarists Basilio Garvia and Juan Jimenez, singers Pepe ‘El Bocadillo’ and Juán José Amador with Lucky Losada on Cajon.

Lola Mayo
‘El Bocadillo’ and Lola
Lola Mayo
Pepe ‘El Bocadillo’
Juan Jóse Amador
Pol Vaquero, guitarist Basilio García
Pol Vaquero
At least Pol and Juan Jóse were having fun
Ole Pol!!!

The show, and it was quite a show, called ‘En Memoria’ ran for well over two hours. It was directed by Maya who clearly has aspirations for a bigger theatrical venue. I should have known from the smoke machine which was running when I arrived and not switched off until after the first number. And from the dais built in the middle of the runway with acoustic boards running to the stage. And from the over loud recorded music for Maya’s ‘dramatic’ entrance. He entered wearing a long cape and a lot of makeup and glitter hair gel. He had to work hard to get me on board after that. He is an accomplished dancer but takes himself far too seriously. To jump to the end. Just when I thought we had seen everything; fabulous alegria by Vaquero and Lola’s seguiriya (including some recognisable chore), Maya came back and finished a very long piece that started with very loud baston on the dais with three interminable anguished stanzas of a poem by who knows who? I would have been so much happier with a regular tablao format minus cajon showcasing the musicians and dance.

Juan Andrés Maya
Ditto
The Dickensian baston piece
David Copperfield?

I want to end on a positive note though, as this week’s experience has overwhelmingly been wonderful. I arrived from the mountains with walking legs, but leave with dancer’s feet – I am naturally walking down the street in compas, just can’t help it. Un, DOS, un, dos, TRES, cuatro, cinco, SAIS, siete, OCHO, nueve, DIEZ, un DOS, un, dos, TRES…..😷💃🏽

Adios from Madrid!

2018, the Best Bits

I’m writing this highlights of 2018 on the verandah of Riverbend books in Balmoral, Brisbane, with a flaming red poinciana tree shading me from today’s 30 degree celsius scorcher. Summer is blasting Queensland with a vengeance. Thousands of hectares of forest burn as I sit here sipping green tea and hundreds of families face a homeless year-end holiday courtesy of climate change. Meanwhile the Australian Federal Parliament is imploding…..

Leaving the folly of national politics aside, 2018 for us has been an epic year, most memorable as the year our sons became fathers to two bonny, baby girls, one in Melbourne, Australia in March, the other in Edinburgh, Scotland in April. We’ve watched on as Cameron and Tristan fell in love with their daughters and created warm, loving families with their beautiful, strong partners.

The year kicked off with my hairiest personal challenge yet, a month-long sailing adventure (sans Stuart), pushed by Tradewinds from Cape Town, South Africa, via St Helena to Cabedelo, Brazil.

Skyelark delivered her crew of six (pictured above enjoying our first beer in Brazil) another exciting passage filled with personal challenges, beautiful sunrises, sunsets, countless flying fish, dolphins and hilarious afternoon radio quizzes with the rest of the World ARC fleet. Swimming in the seemingly bottomless azure Atlantic Ocean a thousand sea miles from land while hove to was a unique and unforgettable experience for me.

With my favourite watch buddy, Tim (above) and Skyelark at anchor at St Helena.

A bonus was the too short time I had in Cape Town before the voyage to climb Table Mountain and tour the Cape.

Life at 63 really doesn’t get better than this, hands free Tradewinds sailing!

Once on land I was blown away by wildlife experiences in the water world of the Pantanal with real life Brazilian cowboy, Paulo.

And perplexed by Rio’s completely crazy Carnaval.

Rio’s beach culture is a little different from Australia’s but cruising the bay on an SUP made me feel right at home.

Back in Spain I sampled an alternative Carnival, in Cadiz!

And revelled in some of the world’s best flamenco amongst dear friends in Jerez.

maestro Angel Muñoz

Siblings Pilar Ogalla and Juan Ogalla after his knockout show.

Sandra Carrasco and Company

Triumphant husband and wife Pilar Ogalla and Andres Peña take a rapturous curtain call.

Completely different from Skyelark, but almost as special, was our week on the grand old dame, Irene of Bridgewater, out of Oban to Scotland’s Western Isles. As well as sailing we sea kayaked, hiked to breathtaking viewpoints, celebrated Stuart’s 67th birthday, and I swam an obligatory lap of Irene in very chilly waters.

A return to Paris for Roland Garros, this time with great friends Jean Louis and Liz, followed by a seaside sojourn in Ile de Re, showed off France at its very best.

My tennis hero, Rafael Nadal.

Slightly tipsy post prandial cycle home.

Portugal treated us well too with many kilometres of walking in Sintra and along the northwest coast.

Since our Elliott family reunion in the Dordogne in June (photos below) to mark Stuart’s brother James’ 70th birthday, we’ve been working to make our newly built home on Gypsy Hill in Broken Head, New South Wales, a comfortable place for friends and family to visit.

I take my hat off to Stuart who shepherded the project through to completion despite daily trials. Reviews thus far have been positive. The first inaugural flamenco weekend nearly got blown away in a tempest, but we pushed on with an intimate indoor evening of song, dance, poetry and castenet performances. Very special. Book club friends also pronounced the cabin and house very comfortable and we plan for mire of the same in 2019.

My second Byron Writers’ Festival was enlivened by outstanding authors, principally Michelle de Kretser, who went on to win her second Miles Franklin literary award for favourite book of the year ‘The Life To Come’. I urge you to read her work. Next year’s festival is 2-4 August. Don’t miss it.

We’re also glad to have made it to Tenterfield in September for the very first Peter Allen Festival, made even more special by being hosted by friends Suzanne and Tim.

A swift trip to the UK in November for our niece, Sally’s 40th birthday weekend celebration in the seaside town of Swanage, capped off the year’s travel perfectly. The Elliotts were on fine form with many tiny people being passed from arms to arms or chased around the house.

We’ll spend year-end on The Hill with Cam and family working on our croquet and boules skills and keeping a baby Melburnian cool.

2019 trip planning is well in hand with a six-week combo of Kerala, India, and skiing in the Italian Dolomites starting early February. My clinical drug trial, testing a brand new Rheumatoid Arthritis immunotherapy, will have finished by then. Regardless of the outcome we’re all systems go for another thrilling year. Hope you can stick around for the ride!

Festival de Jerez XXII Dance Workshops: Muñoz, Leal and Guerrero

Alongside the treasure trove of world class and premiere performances, an equally compelling reason to go to Festival de Jerez is its master classes. The two-week program offers weeklong daily classes in dance at all levels from absolute beginner to professional. In addition you can study palmas, castenets and, new this year, Spanish language.

All Festival “maestros” are top artists ranging from the young like, 26-year-old Gema Moneo, to older professors such as Javier Latorre. The only way to judge beforehand how good they actually are at teaching is by word of mouth. As you might imagine, excellence on stage isn’t necessarily a reliable indicator of ability to teach. That would be like expecting Dame Judy Dench to both write and direct a play in seven days.

Other factors to consider are style, physique (e.g. tall men would do well to study with tall men) and of course the palo and props, if relevant.

With this in mind I went with known quality, Angel Muñoz, for Solea Por Bulerias (basico) for week one. Angel’s choreography is peerless and his genuine affection for pupils wins him devoted students who literally follow him around the world. Well, Stuart and I did travel to Rome last May just so I could take his weekend tarantos workshop! The only issue for me is that Angel’s boundless energy can sometimes be overwhelming. These days I’m more able to dial it down.

Our singer was Momi de Cadiz and the guitarist David Navarro. Both worked hard from day one to give us gorgeous music to dance to. David’s original falsetta is particularly lovely. By day seven we had nine minutes of incredible choreography including a bulerias finale, quite an achievement. Angel laughed at me because I counted his remates – there were six – and complained I could never remember which one was coming up next. Angel’s English has improved in leaps and bounds in the nine years I’ve known him, so much so that when he explained something critically important in English a French woman called out in Spanish, “Can you please say that in Spanish so I can understand”.

For week two I selected Leonor Leal (born in Jerez) por bulerias (basico). Her alegrias workshop a couple of years back was a real break through experience for me.

Leonor is like a female version of Manuel Betanzos in her fluid use of upper body. Another generous, humble, kind artist, she teaches from the heart. She is also particularly responsive to individual student’s needs. She saw several people couldn’t understand the musical structure of a bulerias song so she brought in butcher’s paper and coloured pens and wrote out the lyrics then marked up exactly where the closes/remates and calls/llamadas could potentially be placed. These were taped to the mirror so we could refer to them.

Leo is exactly the kind of beginner bulerias teacher everybody benefits from. She allowed us to video her each day, hence all the cameras.

A flamenco friend invited me to the Jerez launch of Leonor’s children’s book, “Catalina sin pamplinas” (‘Catalina without frills’), illustrated by Guridi. Sitting on the floor surrounded by kids listening with rapt attention to the story of the flamenco dancer who travels the world to perform was just magical. I hope this is the first of a series of adventures for Catalina.

A special shout out too to our guitarist, Jose Torres Vicente. Leonor’s command of English is good but Jose’s is even better. When he saw we were struggling to understand something he would offer an English explanation. It’s so valuable to work with an articulate guitarist experienced in accompanying dance. Eva Rubichi was our singer, what a tiny powerhouse she is!

I had planned to take just one course per week but when I saw Eduardo Guerrero was teaching alegrias (one level only second week) I was sorely tempted. I’d enjoyed my week with him at Manuel Betanzos’ academy in Seville last year. We had been just four students for tangos (basico) and whilst it was tough I thought I did ok. I wrote to Eduardo saying I would have liked to take his course, but as it was medio I felt it would be above my level. Eduardo convinced me it would be ok for me so I registered late and went in prepared to give it my best shot.

I lasted three days. I didn’t leave because the choreography was too hard. I left because I don’t agree with Eduardo’s approach to teaching. As a teacher myself (journalism back in the day) I have a fair idea of how to support adult learning. One thing no one needs, in a two hour twenty minute class of 25 people, is to stand idle for half an hour while every person demonstrates individually that they can dance a step sequence to Eduardo’s satisfaction. This happened more than once. I tolerated it, but when Eduardo got brusque about us moving into precise rows of five people to repeat a sequence across the room and actually pushed me his time was up. I think teaching can be like parenting. We tend to replicate the model of parenting we experienced and without self awareness and knowledge we may repeat inappropriate behaviours.

Class photo of Eduardo’s alegrias medio. Although they take attendance they still tried to present me with a class completion certificate in absentia.

Dropping the class gave me more time to spend lunching in the Andalusian sunshine with Stuart whom I hadn’t seen in two months and who was only in Jerez for four days. We had Scottish friends from Australia, Heather and George, visit twice too. They hugely enjoyed seeing Ana Morales perform in their first ever flamenco experience.

Here we all are pre-Villamarta show with Suzanne at La Cruz Blanca.

I’ll finish with well deserved praise for Javier Latorre’s choreographic workshop group who performed gratis in Sala Compañia on the final afternoon of the Festival. A large group of dancers from all over the world, 18 in all, they acquitted themselves well and, combined with solos by Javier and two other accomplished dancers, gave us a memorable show. ¡Ole con ole a todos!

ADDENDUM:

Other Festival flamenco dance teachers I heartily recommend are:

Andres Peña

No one comes close for pure soul and flamenco sensibility

Manuel Betanzos

Demands 100% commitment but in return you receive Manuel’s energy, choreographic flair and body work

Olga Pericet

Consummate professional, great drills and choreography

Manuel Liñan

Surprisingly grounded and thoughtful with mercurial choreography

Mercedes Ruiz

Warm up is a little too long, but otherwise a great teacher for women with a relaxed style

Pilar Ogalla

Excellent bata de cola teacher with feminine upper body style

Alicia Marquez

Excellent bata de cola teacher with a great sense of humour

Rafaela Carrasco

Calm and considered, she uses a repetiteur (in my case a dancer called Luna) which means you can see the footwork more easily wherever you stand in class

Increasingly Spanish maestros speak at least a little of other languages however it is well worth the effort to study Spanish before you start taking class in Spain.

Photo above was taken during a water break in Leo’s class of Colleen, a gorgeous new friend I made from Canada.

Triumphant returns and debut fails: Festival De Jerez XXII Performance Reviews

I write to the soundtrack of a snoring dwarf splayed across the airplane seats in front.

One of a group of foul-mouthed Glaswegians with smokers’ coughs, the dwarf’s tattoed arms are revealed by his tshirt. Drunk Glaswegians don’t feel the cold.

From the top of his head to his butt he is of regular size, but his legs and arms are tiny, with white-socked feet the size of a five-year-old. I learn his name is Turk when his mate wakes him for the descent into Edinburgh. They’ve clearly been hitting the grog hard in Barcelona, and apart from Turk, who had a skinful when he boarded, continue to drink their duty free on the flight. Turk slept solidly for three hours.

As for me, I stretched out too, but used the time to relive the highlights of the past fortnight in Jerez. My eighth Festival de Jerez since first experiencing it in 2009, 2018 will be the last one for a while.

Much has changed for us already this year even though it’s only March. One granddaughter has made her appearance in Melbourne and the other is poised to debut mid-April in Edinburgh. With luck we will be bi-hemisphere grandparents. Plus we now have a home in Broken Head, Australia. Stuart is threatening to put down roots and has joined the table tennis club. I gather croquet is next.

Elka at four days.

But back to the Festival which was dedicated to the very much alive and kicking Angelita Gomez, awarded a medal of honour this year by Andalusia for her services to the art of flamenco.

To make it easy for you to flick through what was a mammoth two weeks of flamenco shows I’ll start with my very subjective assessment of the performances. ¡Disfrutar!

FLAMENCO PERFORMANCES

Opening Show, Friday 23 February, 2018

Ballet Nacional De España, Villamarta Theatre 9pm

This was a BIG program presented in two parts with an intermission after the Bolero.

The company had performed the program several times before so as you would expect of a national corps, they were very sharp and polished. It marked seven years with Antonio Najarro as the director of the Ballet and he is clearly a force to be reckoned with.

ERITAÑA is from the fourth ‘Book’ and the final piece of the suite written for piano “Iberia” by Isaac Albeniz between 1904 and 1909. This fourth section was written to evoke Andalusia (the first two pieces are called “Malaga” and “Jerez” and the Eritaña is a lively piece of music paying homage to the historical Seville flamenco cafe cantante called Venta Eritaña.

References:

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iberia_(Albéniz)

“Isaac Albeniz, Portrait of a Romantic”, (2002) publisher Oxford University Press, by Walter A Clarke accessed https://books.google.es/books?id=dg60ZjqZLfkC&pg=PA64&lpg=PA64&dq=meaning+Eritaña&source=bl&ots=Zid1xbo2A8&sig=BFWROP_26VTtA22vmU1w2yZ91As&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiI4MWG2L7ZAhVPkRQKHdZ8C5AQ6AEwA3oECAgQAQ#v=onepage&q=meaning%20Eritaña&f=false

In costuming, staging and style, this piece for the corps, with castenets, with some individual and small group features, was typical of what I expected to see from this company. It was a restaging of a classic peice of choreography. The music was recorded which is always a minus for me.

SOLEA DEL MANTON performed by the statuesque Esther Jurado was one of my favourite pieces of the evening. Esther is a commanding presence, a strong woman with a calmness about her that inspires confidence. Wearing a simple black dress with a full skirt and single strap fitting bodice that really showed her powerful upper body, she wielded the black and white closely patterned manton artfully. The musicians were excellent. Having both the male and female voices to sing gave light and shade.

ZAPATEADO DE SARASATE

This was another choreographic piece by Antonio Ruiz Soler, a male solo with live music by a pianist and violinist. The dancer, Jose Manuel Benitez, is young, but technically accomplished. The choreography had a high degree of difficulty in the turns and fast, controlled footwork which Jose Manuel performed very cleanly, especially given that the music was quiet and some parts he danced to silence. It was a long piece with a break and he took bows, that made me think he had finished, however he returned, reprised a section, added a bit and then finished with a flourish. Personally, I would not have put in the break, it seemed gratuitous.

BOLERO

Again we had a beautiful, slim hipped young man, Sergio Bernal, dancing solo, this time with the occasional accompaniment of the seated female corps with fans and later members of the male corps.

With his naked torso showing every single muscle he moved sensuously, mostly using only his upper body with astonishing control.

I felt I had seen a terrific, elegant and energetic show, but it was only intermission. When the company returned to the stage for the second half they gave us a six-part ballet called ‘Alento’ to a recorded orchestral piece that ended with all 28 members of the Ballet dancing. A strong opening night with plenty of flamenco amongst the danza español to satisfy even the flamenco purists.

Friday 23 February

Antonio Rey “Dos Partes De Mi” Bodega Gonzales Byass Midnight

However the night was far from over for me. The midnight show in the Bodega with Antonio Rey on guitar showcased both his divine flamenco and world music. Annoyingly for audience members who still have their hearing, the sound system was ear splittingly loud and attempts by several people to persuade the sound engineer to turn it down failed. He must have had industrial deafness. I moved my chair to the extreme back of the bodega. Invited artist, Joaquin Grilo, strode onstage at 1am and I found a spot standing on the sound stage which gave me a perfect view.

Joaquin gave us 30minutes of maximum Grilo-style dance enlivened by a spectacular mullet and spray on black pleather pants. Joaquin is always a crowd pleaser.

Saturday 24 February,

Manuel Liñan “Baile de Autor” Villamarta Theatre 9pm

“Baile de Autor” by Manuel Liñan was another tour de force by the ever evolving maestro of flamenco dance. This time Manuel was part magician, part showman, conjuring up moods, fantasies, dreams. I joked with Manuel Betanzos on the way into the theatre that Manuel Liñan would have to add abanico, baston and sombrero to his routine of bata de cola with manton this year after his successful “Reversible”. Lo and behold in the second half bata de cola and manton appeared, then fan, followed by a clear perspex baston. No sombrero, but there there is always next year. To be honest I could do without props. Manuel and the music is enough for me. The final piece was a cinematic treat, stripping down to a white singlet Manuel stepped into a shallow tray of water that extended the width of the theatre. With each step, swish and turn the water sprayed and splashed making beautiful patterns against the back wall.

The singer was David Carpio and Manuel Valencia played guitar.

Sunday 25 February, 2018

Compañia Flamenca La Lupi “La Paula” Villamarta Theatre 9pm

This show would benefit from some prior research by the viewer as knowledge of the historical figure of the gitana flamenca from Malaga, La Paula, would help to understand the work better, the program notes did not offer much.

La Lupi, from Malaga, wanted to pay homage to this popular figure born at the turn of the century, and whose final five years were marred by senile dementia. La Paula died of a heart attack aged 76. She is immortalised by the poem ‘Romance a La Paula’, written by Ceferino Sanchez Calvo

http://www.andalucia.com/flamenco/dancers/lapaula.htm

There was also a clear theme of obsessive love for her mother, also a dancer, but I couldn’t find any historical reference for this.

The style of dance La Lupi chose to characterise La Paula bordered at times on burlesque and bawdy which, which while common of dancers in Malaga (and one reason I am not fond of their style), does not gel with what has been written about La Paula. She is said to have danced mostly with her upper body with elegant movements of her arms and hands. La Lupi went way over the top and thereby lost impact.

Juan de Juan danced a strong petenera in a masculine, staccato, gitano style which seemed more Farruquito than Farruquito.

The musicians were excellent, especially Chelo Pantoja of Jerez, who sang and also danced a little as La Paula’s mother and invited artist Maria Terremoto. Maria only needs to open her mouth to sing saetas to open my tear ducts. Other singers were David ‘El Galli’ and Manuel Tane. Los Makarines also sang bulerias and the guitarists were Oscar Lago and Curro de Maria. Percussionist was David Galiano, palmista was Roberto Jaen, and Nelson Doblas played violin.

Miguel Poveda name appears on the program notes in the long list of acknowledgements, so when he walked on stage singing the copla ‘La Paula’ the Villamarta roof nearly came off. His and Maria’s singing and Chelo’s song and dance were the highlights for me. Miguel returned for the finale to sing again and proved what a good sport he is.

Sunday 25 February

Roman Vicente, La Guarida Del Angel 11pm

From the Villamarta I went directly to Guarida Del Angel for the standing room only 11pm show. It started at 11:30pm with the announcement that alongside the headline act, guitarist Roman Vicente, Farruquito would not be appearing as billed because he had torn a meniscus that afternoon in Seville. He even apologised to us in a video recording projected on the wall. Younger brother, ‘El Farruco’ Antonio Fernandez Montoya, did his best to fill his brother’s shoes. Several people left when they realised Farruquito would not be dancing but to be honest I was happy just to hear Roman Vicente. What an artist!

Monday 26 February,

Belen Lopez, ‘Flamenca’, Sala Compañia 9:30pm

There was no Villamarta show so with a class that did not end until 6:30pm, this time slot was perfect for me. Belen Lopez, from Tarragona, is a high energy, young dancer. It has been eight years since her first appearance at the Festival and she has grown in stature in that time. There was no grand theme or fancy staging, just a confident, solid program of four dances (seguiriya, tangos, alegria con bata de cola with bulerias de Cadiz, and tarantos con manton), delivered with convincing emotion. She has a trademark jumping style to emphasis peak moments. In the fin de fiesta finale the artists took a selfie which seems to be a thing now.

The singers were Manuel Tane, Morenito de Lllora and Pedro Jimenez. Guitarists were Juan Jimenez and Carlos Jimenez while the percussionist was Rafael Jimenez ‘Chispa’.

Tuesday 27 February

“Flamenconautas, Compañia Internacional de Flamenco: Vamo’alla” Villamarta Theatre 9pm

For only the second time (to my knowledge) the Villamarta Theatre stage was filled with flamenco artists – dancers and musicians – from all over the globe. You can’t please all of the people all of the time but 95% of the 14 pieces they presented pleased me very much! The artistic director and choreographer Javier Latorre danced twice, solo and with groups and for a fifty-year-old who doesn’t perform much any more he acquitted himself well. The Japanese singer Yuka Imaeda was convincing, especially por bulerias.

I enjoyed Karen Lugo and Jose Maldonado’s contemporary piece and Jose Maldonado’s zorongo solo was wonderful. I would be remiss if I did not question the wisdom of having Shoji Kojima dancing. Age is no barrier to performance (he is 78) but a lack of ability is. I respectfully disagree with El Diario’s reviewer Fran Pereira and suggest it is time Kojima san exited the stage gracefully. Juan Gomez ‘Chicuelo’ accompanied Kojima on guitar as he has done for decades.

Photo credit El Diario

Tuesday 27 February

Maria Terremoto “Raices” Bodega Gonzales Byass Midnight

The sublime Jerez gitana, Maria Terremoto, and 11 of her Jerezano friends and family, including Melchor Borja, on a grand piano, gave us a show to remember. Her talent is formidable and she performs confidently and professionally. Her singing style is natural, but has great power. Still so young, (27) it will be interesting to see in what direction beautiful Maria takes her talent. Invited singers: Rafael del Zambo, Enrique Remache, Manuel de la Nina. Guitar: Nono Jero, Percussion: Carlos Merino, Chorus: Ana Gonzalez, Inma La Carbonera, Encarni Benitez, Palmas: Manuel Valencia, Manuel Cantarote.

Wednesday 28 February

Ana Morales “Requiem”, Museo de Enganche de la Real Escuela Andaluza de Arte Ecuestre, Salon 1810 1pm

Artist in residence (a new Festival feature) Ana Morales staged the second iteration of her work in progress in the open space of the Museo Del Enganche with the audience seated on three sides. She will perform it again at the Seville Bienal too under the title “Sin permiso. Canciones para el silencio”. Four pieces, (costume changes on stage) all very different in mood and content, but all virtuosic except the last short homage to her late father which she danced wearing his overcoat. In one piece she mirror danced in silence and to percussion by Daniel Suarez, with dancer Jose Manuel Alvarez in a manner that seemed to show the deterioration of a relationship. Then she donned bata de cola to dance a serrano to the singing and guitar playing of the gorgeous Juan Jose Amador. In each piece she connected with the audience, sometimes literally reaching out to them and very generously (and bravely) gave us the opportunity afterwards to ask questions and provide feedback directly to her in person. When she danced this work at Sadlers Wells a week prior it was only thirty minutes. Somehow within a week she managed to add thirty minutes.

Wednesday 28 February

Rocio Molina “Caida Del Cielo” Villamarta Theatre 9pm

This is not a new work by Rocio and the title made it clear that we were in for a wild ride, however Rocio still managed to shock and offend people. The show opened with Rocio on drums bashing along to a rock metal song wearing a hooded bathrobe. She returned with a virginal white bata de cola and bare feet. Using the white plastic covered floor of the stage like a wall, she moved as if in a trance, then bounced and slid across it. The piece ended with her disrobing completely, strategically placed arms and hands a la the Venus de Milo. A musician helped her dress for the next dance. In the space of an hour and half she barely left the stage and moved through a range of characters and costumes, only one of which I had seen before, the torero with knee pads which she peformed a version of at the Bodega GB last year. My favourite piece was the slightly S&M garrotin in which she looked like she was going to strap on a dildo but instead stuck a packet of crisps to her pudendum and a sombrero on her head.

She flirted and played with the crisps provocatively and humourously all the while continuing her trademark perfect soniquete. Rocio’s command of her body and compas is complete. I can’t think of another female dancer who comes close. After she destroyed/painted the stage with a plastic bata de cola dipped in what looked like blood and mud (a musician later washed her feet for her on stage), she danced to hard rock music then donned a ra ra skirt and midriff floral top while eating grapes to finish with a flourish. Ole Rocio! Not sure where you will from from here but eternally curious to see.

Co-Artistic director for dramaturgy, sets and lighting, Carlos Marquerie, electric bass guitar and singing: Jose Angel Carmona, Compas and percussion: Jose Manuel Ramos ‘Oruco’, Drums and percussion: Pablo Martin Jones, Choreographic assistance: Elena Cordoba

Thursday 1 March

Alfonso Losa “Con-Secuencia’, Villamarta Theatre 9pm

This one man show was said to be a reflection of all the influences that come to bear on an artist and that cause them to evolve. Further it was to be a conversation between the building blocks of flamenco and the necessity to articulate new dance languages. Losa is a fast and physical dancer and he carried the show successfully with fantastic support from the gitana cantaora La Tana and singers Ismael de la Rosa ‘El Bola’ and Manuel Tane. The guitarist was Yerai Cortes. The final bulerias was electrifying. My only quibble is that Losa kept the same trousers on the entire show despite the opportunity for a full costume change in the musical numbers. Sweaty hair is one thing but completely saturated pants are offputting.

Friday 2 March

David Palomar, Riki Rivera, El Junco and Roberto Jaen “Que Pasaria Si Pasara?” Villamarta Theatre 9pm

The consummate comedic singer-showman, David Palomar, appeared to be the main attraction in this show dreamed up by Riki Rivera, but I was surprised and delighted to see how even-handed the performance was. Every one of the Gaditanos got a chance to showcase hitherto hidden (to me) talents. El Junco delivered a rapid fire comedic spoken piece, Riki Rivera sang and Robert Jaen danced. Skewering sacred cows, satire, impersonations, word play, is all par for the course in Cadiz, but not often seen in flamenco. The show was huge fun even if a lot of the script flew over my head. There can be no denying Palomar has one of the most versatile voices, El Junco dances like a dream, Jaen is a metronome, and Rivera’s guitar playing is perfection. A fabulous show!

Friday 2 March

Gema Moneo, “El Sonida de Mis Dias”, Sala Paul Midnight

Jerez-born 26-year-old Gema deserved this chance to dance solo for the first time in the Festival. Last year Farruquito selected her to partner him in ‘Baile Moreno’ at the Villamarta and she was mesmerising. She has been studying and performing full throttle since that opportunity and has improved solidly as a soloist since I saw her at La Guarida Del Angel in the off festival program last year. There was nothing fancy in the sold out Sala Paul program, everything she wanted to say she said with her dance and with the quality of the musicians. Her wonderful trio of singers were Miguel Lavi, Manuel Tane and Jesus Corbacho, with invited artist her uncle, the singer Luis Moneo. The guitarist was Juan Campallo and Percussion was by Ane Carrasco. Congratulations Gema, you are fulfilling your promise.

Saturday 3 March

Eduardo Guerrero “Faro” Bodega La Constancia 1pm

After winning the audience’s favourite Villamarta show award for last year’s solo show “Guerrero”, Eduardo brought us a slightly more pared down solo work evoking the seascape of his native Cadiz with the lighthouse as a powerful metaphor. With couturier costumes tailored skin tight (four dances = four costume changes) and a spare stage set of multipurpose white boxes, some of which he adjusted mid dance and later leapt on to to do footwork and a white frame clothes rack, the show benefited from Guerrero having toured it extensively overseas. It’s a physically taxing performance -caña, tangos, seguiriyas and alegrias – and as usual he gave us his last drop of sweat with just a good length of pause for the singers to have their moment in the spotlight and well deserved it was. Anabel Rivera so relaxed and confident singing “Alfonsina y al mar” and Manu Soto letting rip later in his “Rompio el Amor”. Another impressive show that won him more fans.

Saturday 3 March

Andres Peña and Pila Ogalla, “La Tournee”, Villamarta Theatre 9pm

This is the show many of us had been eagerly anticipating. With two past ‘best of festival’ awards in the bag (one for Andres for his one man show in 2014 and one jointly in 2016) plus a third in 2008 as an invited artist (Miguel Poveda’s show), there was a lot of pressure on the pair to deliver again.

And deliver they did! Starting with simple concepts of life as a journey in which every day is the same but no two days are alike, alongside the reality of a travelling band of flamenco artists arguing over which foreign city they want to travel to for work, they put together a series of solos and duets that played to their strengths. There aren’t too many married flamenco dancers of the calibre of Andres and Pili. You can see them read each other’s minds and the chemistry between them is authentic. Using Pilar’s manton to bind themselves together and embrace was sexy and magical. Pilar shone in her solos and my favourite moment of the evening came in the abandolao when Andres really did abandon himself to the joy of dance. The smile on his face was pure gold. That is ‘duende’.

If I could choose, I would live it again exactly so that nothing repeats itself.” This is the quote that ends the program notes. I shall be looking for an opportunity to see “La Tournee” again as I am sure I will enjoy it even more the second time around.

Kudos to David Coria for his stage direction. I loved the bare stage (no curtained wings) with the only props the red chairs which Andres danced on and the hats which gave an interesting silhouette to each artist. Wonderful singing by Inma Rivero, Emilio Florido, and Miguel Rosendo, Guitarist (as always): Rafael Rodriguez and Palmas: Roberto Jaen.

Sunday 4 March

Ballet Flamenco Andalucia Instituto Andaluz Del Flamenco ” Flamenco, Tradicion, Vanguardia y Proyecto Cantera” Villamarta Theatre 9pm

Rafael Estevez was back with another immaculately rehearsed and staged ensemble show in three parts; Mediterranea/Atlantica, Hierro/Bronce and Tierra/Aire.

Estevez gave himself plenty of stage time as did the principal dancer-choreographer Valeriano Pañas. They shared choreography honours with the dancers. Soloists this year were Sara Jimenez and Macarena Lopez. Male corps members were Marti Corbera, Borja Cortes, Eduardo Leal and Alberto Selles, while the female corps were Nadia Gonzales, Gloria del Rozario and Carmen Yanes. The guitarists were Juan Torres and Pau Vallet. Singers were Sebastian Cruz, Jose Luis Carcia “Cheito” and Jose Luis Perez-Vera. It was another strong show, however I would like to see less of Estevez and more of Alberto Selles, the standout male dancer for me.

Monday 5 March

Jesus Fernandez “Puntos Incabados”, Sala Paul 9:30pm

This show filled the time slot of the Villamarta and sold out. Much was expected of Fernandez who was last at the festival seven years ago, but I was sorely disappointed. Whilst his footwork is technically brilliant he has a slackness in his upper body and arms which verges on camp. The work was constructed in tandem with the contemporary dancer, Ivan Amaya, with solo and partner moments, the latter being some of the more interesting bits of the show. Fernandez also danced with Anabel Moreno, styled as the stereotypical hypersexual ‘Carmen’ and whilst the execution of the choreography was competent the pairing was completely unbelievable and did not excite. The El Diario review said that Fernandez had been mentored by Daniel Doña and Doña is credited with artistic direction and co-choreographer. I don’t think Doña helped him. The invited artist was the great singer Miguel Ortega and Jose Almarcha played guitar.

Tuesday 6 March

Rafaela Carrasco “Nacida Sombra” Villamarta Theatre 9pm

This was one of my top five shows. Rafaela created four strong, very different female characters with complementary beautiful costuming. Rafaela’s role was that of the religious mystic Teresa de Jesus, while the other dancers enacted the roles of Spanish feminist novelist Maria de Zayas (1590 – 1661), the celebrated actress Maria Calderon (1611-1646) who was the mistress of King Philip IV for two years and bore him his only heir, and Mexican, self-taught philospopher, scientist and latterly nun, Juana Ines de la Cruz, who lived during the mid-16th century.

The dancers were Florencia O’Ryan (used to go by Zuniga – the stunning Chilean dancer I talent spotted at the T de Triana in September 2011 who went on to the Ballet Flamenco De Andalucia), Carmen Angulo and Paula Comitre. Guitarists were Jesus Torres and Juan Antonio Suarez “Cano”. Singers were Antonio Campos and Miguel Ortega.

Tuesday 6 March

Ezequial Benitez “Quimeras Del Tiempo-Recuer2” Sala Paul 7pm

My favourite, male, living Jerezano singer, Ezequiel Benitez was in stellar company, including the singer Jesus Mendez and dancer Maria Del Mar Moreno. He really is the most beautiful man and when both he and Jesus sang for Maria my heart melted. An hour I will cherish. Guitarists were Jose de Pura and Paco Leon, Palmas by Chicharito, Israel Tubio and Jose Peña.

Wednesday 7 March

Daniel Doña Compañia De Danza Española “No Pausa” Villamarta Theatre 9pm

This was probably my least favourite show. I can only watch so much Danza Española to recorded music at a flamenco festival, but the El Diario preview article assured us it would include flamenco. Well blink and you would have missed it (actually it was more folkloric than flamenco). The title was misleading too, there were plenty of pauses in the so called perpetual motion machine. Add to that I only really rated one of the dancers, Cristina Gomez. So there I was wondering whether I could sneak out unnoticed. Answer, no. Daniel Doña danced two solos, and the other two dancers were Soujung Youn of South Korea and Cristian Martin. The talented guitarist was Francisco Vinuesa and the singer David Vazquez.

Thursday 8 March

Antonio Molina ‘El Choro’ “Gelem” Villamarta Theatre 9pm

Slightly odd programming to schedule a performance by eight men on International Women’s Day, but ‘Gelem’ was a strong Villamarta production resulting from a collaboration between the gitano dancer, Antonio Molina ‘El Choro’ (Huelva) and dancer-choreographer Manuel Liñán. Invited artist, singer, Pedro El Granaino, had me in tears in the opening song. ‘Gelem’ is a gitano hymn of struggle and suffering. Singers were Jesus Corbacho, Jonathon Reyes and Pepe de Pura, Guitarists Juan Campallo and Manuel de la Luz, plus Percussionist Paco Vega. A very satisfying 11 part show that will take El Choro to the next level in his career.

Friday 9 March

Isabel Bayon Compañia Flamenca “Dju-Dju” Villamarta Theatre 9pm

I saw this work, which is artistically and choreographically directed by Israel Galvan, with the same cast, at Seville’s La Bienal 2017. With its vodoo theme I found it amusing as it pokes fun at all the superstitions of performing artists, if a bit fringe for what is billed as a flamenco show. I liked the section where the three women danced as a kind of witches’ coven. That part has disappeared and in its place there is more humour and less dance. I was not alone in that estimation. The dancers, besides Bayon, were Alicia Marquez and Nieves Casablanca who acquit themselves well when allowed to dance. The guitarist (a Jesus character) was Jesus Torres, the singer Alejandro Villaescusa, Clavichord and Piano were played by Alejandro Rojas-Marcos and the motorised props, including a dancing white xmas tree, were operated by Pedro Romero.

Friday 9 March

Juan Ogalla “Bailar Para Contarlo” Sala Compañia midnight

The show of the night (for me) was Juan Ogalla’s triumphant return to the Festival after seven years’ absence. In the meantime he has worked solidly, especially in France, the US and in Canada. With his sister, Pila Ogalla, as artistic director he crafted an impressive body of work that played to his strengths; his powerful, mature male presence, explosive footwork and arguably the most interesting soniquete of this festival. Yes, even better than Guerrero’s. The musicians were wonderful too, Emilio Florido, Miguel Rosendo, Manuel Gago (cante), and Eugenia Iglesias (guitar). ¡Ole Juan!

Saturday 10 March

Manuel Fernandez Montoya ‘El Carpeta’ “A Bailar” Villamarta Theatre 9pm

It was a disappointing debut show at the Villamarta by El Carpeta. Expecting a 20-year-old to carry the weight of the closing show of the Festival was a lot to ask and he came up well short. The credits and the preview article make it clear that the artistic and musical direction was El Carpeta’s responsibility alone. Where to begin. As all good teachers try to I will praise the fact that he accepted the challenge and that he does indeed have very snappy footwork and great, long remates that have developed ever since I first saw him dance live in 2009, dancing por bulerias in Farruquito’s come back show. It is also possible that Farruquito’s being unable to perform left him with a hole he had trouble filling. Certainly I enjoyed his mother, Rosario Montoya “La Farruca”‘s bulerias dancing more than his.

Now to the problems that beset the seven-part show.

Nine musicians sat on stage in a semi-circle for most of the show. Two of them were percussionists which always makes me anxious. One percussionist I can handle, but two is one too many for flamenco, especially when the sound levels are all over the place. The lighting also seemed to be jinxed with levels too low at the beginning in the Seguiriya and spots not hitting the mark or cutting out at the wrong time. There had been flooding in parts of the theatre basements and toilets earlier that day however it had not affected the stage or equipment. Then there was the  extended dischordant piano and song section “Mujer de Maquillaje” by Melchor Borja (with his back to the audience) that went on way too long. If that’s a cry for society to pay attention to the treatment of women I respectfully ask him to let us sing it ourselves.

Also the choice of Africa “La Faraona” to partner El Carpeta in the bulerias was a poor fit and her costume was unflattering. Who advised him on the costuming, including the decision for him to wear glow in the dark shoes for the reprise of the tangos?!

The main choreographic problem El Carpeta has is how to link the various sections of each piece without repetitive marcaje. This exact same problem Farruquito solved in “Baile Moreno” by crafting a story. El Carpeta resorted to marching or skipping across the stage and back with one arm raised to the audience seemingly urging them to applaud him rather in the manner of a boxer when they win a bout. Unfortunately he had not done enough to warrant the applause. Another technical matter he should attend to is that he only ever turns to the right and always the same type of turn. Only the number and velocity of the turns vary.

Despite all that, the family firm are fin de fiesta specialists and, relying as ever on the recency effect, when the show was over and El Carpeta and Farruquito finally stopped talking, they pulled out the big gun for their fin de fiesta, ‘El Moreno’, Farruquito’s cute mini me son.

The two guitarists were the wonderful Roman Vicente whose solo was heartbreaking and David Caro, whose solo seemed unnecessary. The wind instrumentalist was the virtuoso Sergio de Lope. Singers were Ezequial Montoya “Chanito”, Juan Fernandez “El Negro” and Ivan Carpio. Percussionists were Fali de Electronico and Lolo Fernandez.

And that’s a wrap for Festival de Jerez XXII from me! Time for Turk and me to return to the real world.

You can search for videos of edited highlights of each show on vimeo.com . I’ll be back soon with commentary on my dance workshops with Angel Muñoz, Eduardo Guerrero and Leonor Leal.

My Valentine, Flamenco: Triana, Seville

Back in familiar territory, Seville, and specifically Triana, I wrangled jet lag and fought off the hundred or so viruses other travellers had coughed, sneezed and breathed over me in Rio and in transit to Spain.

I’ve lost too many weeks to bad head colds to repeat the mistake of diving in too deep to soon. Sleep, yoga, walking in 20-23 degree celsius sunshine, green tea, home-cooked meals and only one hour of flamenco class in the first week is my winning formula. Fingers crossed – it’s working so far.

The best option to work my way back into dance fitness was morning technique class with Angel Atienza at his Triana studio, A Dos. It bears repeating that Angel is the best technique teacher I know. Every day presents a new challenge with the treat of a bulerias pataita (short sequence of steps) on Fridays.

Three things made this week especially sweet. First, on Wedensday, Valentine’s Day, Angel turned fifty. Hard to believe as he only looks 40 and he has the softest beard I have ever Spanish kissed (left cheek first, then right)! Staff and students made a celebratory party for him after class with lots of gifts, cake and a spirited rendition of “Cumpleaños feliz”.

The second thing was that I nailed my solo demonstration of Angel’s pataita, a llamada contratiempo and a remate, to music. I’d been finding earlier in the week that I picked up and remembered steps more easily and that was certainly the case with this llamada. I can only wonder if the month of rocking and sitting on my backside on Skyelark looking out at the endless Atlantic has shaken something loose in my brain. I just hope it stays loose!

Dancer’s lunch (above).

The third thing was catching up with dear friend Cathy (originally from Adelaide) who continues to study flamenco in Triana. Her quiet commitment and strong spirit always lift me up.

Cathy introduced me to a new, very ‘un-Seville’ Triana cafe, La Baronessa, which has super healthy breakfast options and not a leg of jamon in sight.

Flamenco entertainment options on weeknights were limited. I went to Casa de la Memoria principally to see Antonio Molina ‘El Choni’ dance and had the bonus of Manuela Rios singing in her high sweet voice. It was Valentine’s night and guitarist Manuel de la Luz dedicated the solo composition he wrote and performed to his mother who was upstairs in the audience.

The Thursday night series of flamenco, “Jueves Flamencos”, sponsored by Fundacion Cajasol, started the week I was there, but annoyingly opening night with singer Antonio Reyes and guitarist Pedro ‘El Granaino’ was sold out. I think Fundacion Cajasol (Cajasol is one of the four distressed Spanish banks the Spanish Government merged and which ultimately formed Caixabank in 2012) must keep great swags of tickets for favoured customers and clients.

The consolation for me was hearing a trio of young women – voice, oboe and violin – from the conservatorium busking in calle Sierpes. When they broke into ‘L’amour est un oiseau rebelle’ (the Habanera) from ‘Carmen’ it was heartstoppingly beautiful.

I won’t dwell too much on my own banking fiasco of trying to have my euro Banco Santander credit card replaced swiftly so I can actually use it to withdraw cash from ATMs (Banco Santander cards always seem to fail about six months after being issued). Suffice to say the new card did not appear as promised on Friday despite waiting 1.5 hours for the courier.

New instructions have been issued to send my card on to Jerez as I have two weeks there for the Festival de Flamenco in a week’s time. Even a threat to close the account forthwith brought no action.

All the branch staff have changed since I opened the account in Seville seven years ago and they could clearly care less. The days of being invited across the road for a quick coffee by my account manager are long gone. Now the three women who run the show, Director, Deputy Director and Teller all just shout at me in Spanish at high speed and seem to wish I would simply go away. The only man in the place, speaks in a more moderated manner, but at critical moments he disappears outside for a smoke.

God help the poor bastards who don’t have the resources I do. Banco Santander must make their life a misery.

But enough of Seville, Cadiz Carnaval is calling!

PS Look at the treasure I found in the little library of left behind books in my apartment building. Dana’s memoir of two years on a brig sailing Boston round The Horn to Northern California and back starting in 1834. It’s the author’s reissued copy. Twenty-eight years after it was first published he reclaimed copyright. How perfect for me!

One Perfect Sydney Weekend: Flamenco, Friendship and Sailing

It might not be for everyone, but for me the combination of an intense long weekend flamenco dance workshop amongst friends, followed by an afternoon of blue sky sailing on Sydney harbour is bloody hard to beat.

Andres Peña Moron just completed another sucessful three-city teaching tour of Perth, Adelaide and Sydney. This was his fourth Australian visit and Sydney turned out in strength to study Bulerias, Jaleos and Tientos with the best maestro from Jerez.

Can you guess who is who? Stuart left and Andres right.

Damian Wright, the phenomenal Sydney-based flamenco guitarist who heads up Bandaluzia, played for the classes which flamenco artist, Jessica Statham, organised at the Spanish Dance School in Stanmore.

Left to right Jessica, Damian and Andres

I hadn’t seen some of my classmates since Andres’ first Brisbane workshop so there was a lot of catching up to do. I also forged new friendships in the sweat of the dance studio. When egos are removed, as happens when called on to dance solo to Andres’ singing, barriers come down too. There was a lot of love and laughter in that room.

Three sweaty flamencas post Jaleos L to R Alessandra, me and Jocelyn.

Andres was also on fine form. He has much more English at his command now than when his sum total was ‘My people’, ‘Very possible’ and ‘I love you’. Some of his new expressions had us in stitches.

As you can see from the photos above our dinner party was a flamenco talk fest!

Explaining how to rescue yourself from coming in too early in the Bulerias remate/close Andres urged us to ‘keep them (the moves) in your pocket’. And a neat remate break he taught us is ‘pure gold’. When we reached a tricky step in jaleos he offered us ‘Plan A and Plan B’, i.e. the easy and the less easy sequence.

It’s only been a month since I broke the fifth metatarsal on my right foot so I was uncertain how long I could cope with dancing in flamenco shoes. Luckily jaleos was scheduled first. I could tolerate dancing for an hour and half, then changed into daggy Birkenstocks for Bulerias.

Given that I expect if I ever dance bulerias por fiesta it will be at a party, not a performance, flamenco shoes would be redundant anyway. I did get the last laugh on Andres when he invited me to dance solo and quipped about me wearing stinky sandals. I immediately kicked the ‘stinky sandals’ off and danced my pataita barefoot, gypsy style, and did rather well I thought!

After eleven hours of flamenco and a fond farewell to Andres and friends we were ready for something completely different. On Friday morning we’d walked to Sturrocks chandlers at Rushcutters Bay to buy gear for my 2017-18 World ARC passage Cape Town to Brazil and gawked at the gorgeous yachts at the marina. I suggested Stuart try to book us a day sail on the harbour for our free Monday prior to the evening flight back to Brisbane. He duly did.

We arrived at Darling Harbour early enough to see Kay Cottee’s exhibit at the Australian National Maritime Museum. Kay is my female sailing idol. In 1988 at 34 years of age she became the first woman to circumnavigate the world single-handedly, unassisted and without stopping.

Her world record 189-day sailing feat has been replicated many time since by younger female sailors, but no one comes close to Kay in my eyes. Remember, this was pre-GPS, pre-satellite phones, pre-mobile phones. Paper charts, instruments, radio only. Just let that sink in.

We were able to board her 11.2 metre yacht, First Lady, preserved exactly as it was when she entered Sydney Harbour 29 years ago. Her first mate, Teddy, sits in the cabin and family photos still line the galley.

But there was no time to tarry over the other exhibits, we were due on the water ourselves. Sydney By Sail runs daily afternoon trips from dockside at the Australian National Maritime Museum.

We were the only guests today so Skipper Neil, a charming Englishman turned Aussie, let us helm the 31 foot Dufour yacht. The weather could not have been better. Neil managed the exit and entry to the berth, but Stuart took us out just past the last green bouy before you get to Sydney Heads proper and I sailed and motored her back in. Sailing past the Opera House and under the Harbour Bridge was a real ‘pinch me’ moment.

Being a Monday few boats were about, just the regular ferries and water taxis. We waved ahoy as we passed an obvious ‘round the world’ yacht with seven children and two women aboard. I’ll bet those kids have some stories to tell!

By coincidence I discovered in chatting with Neil that the owner of the sailing business is preparing his own yacht to participate in the 2018-19 World ARC starting from Darwin in September. We’re now in touch and will be swapping experiences down the track. The flamenco family and sailing fraternity make our blue planet seem a much smaller place!

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(Just a reminder, this is not a commercial blog. I pay to keep it ad free and do not receive discounts, contras or freebies, ever!)

To follow Andres Peña Moron you will find him on Facebook or get in touch with me through the comments section. He and Pilar Ogalla, his wife and dance partner, will premier a new work at the Festival de Jerez, on March 3, 2018.

Bandaluzia promotes their gigs and recordings here http://www.damianwrightmusic.com/bandaluzia/

Australian National Maritime Museum Free entry to the permanent galleries including First Lady exhibit http://www.anmm.gov.au

Sydney By Sail https://www.sydneybysail.com

Yots Cafe next to the Maritime Museum do a speedy, tasty, vegan pizza and pasta

An update about Sailing Hall of Fame yachtswoman, Kay Cottee http://www.theaustralian.com.au/news/nation/kay-cottee-only-went-for-a-sail-around-world-solo/news-story/36f3071321112fad3e2ba47d48430ea7

World ARC https://www.worldcruising.com/world_arc/worldarcitinerary.aspx

Sturrocks Chandlery at Rushcutters Bay is a boaties’ candy store http://www.sturrocks.com.au